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Category Archives: Argentina

Buenos Aires: Day 1 and 1/2

2 / 26 / 1011 / 6 / 11

Call me trendy, but I also love this city. Doing so much each day that we are gonna have to do a play by play.
Sun: Arrive evening. Meet Ariel (my friend who I met in Istanbul but is from BA) in Palermo (like Soho) at a bar. Mirrors on the wall, disco balls, red velvet and a live neo soul lineup that took me by surprise. First it was Prince (to go with the decor), then D’Angelo, then Earth, Wind & Fire and then Erykah Badu! It was like they were in my ipod, sans the vocal talent of above named artists. But the musicians were good and the place made for great people watching. Better yet, hipster watching.

Mon:
1. Alto Palermo. It’s pouring rain so of course I went to the mall! But this isn’t just any mall. Kinda posh, but full of Argentine designers and summer sales.
2. Palermo Soho for 10 minutes until it started raining cats and dogs on me:(
3. Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA). Great Andy Warhol exhibit and a sweet collection of Latin American artists. I liked Antonio Berni: example 1 and example 2. Yummy and slightly expensive cafe.

4. Ateneo Gran Splendid. Theatre turned bookstore/cafe. Cafe is on what used to be the stage. People spend hours here and I would too. I had hot chocolate because I had puddles in my shoes by then.

5. Walk down Avenida Santa Fe. Lots of stores, we ducked into Galeria Bond St, think the Haight in an underground mall.

Tattoo shops and punkish clothing galore. A few blocks up was Galeria 5ta, an underground vintage mall… just follow the scent of mothballs. Get your cute retro shorts here.

6. Hostel for a sec then to Centro Cultural Konnex for a drum cirlce called Bomba del Tiempo that happens every Monday. Props to Stephan for telling me to go here. Huge crowd and such an awesome open space, puts the Bay’s use of space to shame.

7. Pizza and empanadas at Guerrin. Apparently it’s a classic. They make this chickpea bread that you put on top of the pizza- it adds a whole new dimension.

Got the travel bug?
Alto Palermo: http://www.altopalermo.com.ar/
Malba: http://www.malba.org.ar/web/home.php
Ateneo: Av Santa Fe 1860
Galerias: Av Santa Fe 1670 & 1270
Bomba del Tiempo: http://labombadetiempo.blogspot.com/
Guerrin: Corrientes & Talcahano
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Buenos Aires: Days 2 & 3

2 / 26 / 1010 / 4 / 11

Tues:
1. Cruise around San Telmo, our hood for five days. Found a great vintage store called El Buen Orden. The owners are adorable and helped me go through the entire sunglasses collection until I found the perfect vintage armani shades (I’m a classy biatch). Calle Defensa is lined with Antique shops, I was in heaven waking up in this area.

2. Bus to La Boca. Home of the local soccer team Boca Juniors and la Caminata, small walkway lined with artists and tango dancers. Kinda sketch at night.
We had lunch at Don Carlos, EVERYONE MUST GO! Carlitos greets you at the door and the food don’t stop coming till you tell it to (seriously, there is no menu you just get served). Classic home cooked Italian fare. Right next to the stadium (note: he’s closed on game days).
3. Recoleta Cemetary. Evita’s resting place. I had “Don’t cry for me Argentina…” stuck in my head all day.

4. Recoleta Cultural Center and Palais Glacia. Both had cool exhibits, my fave at the cultural center was graphic novelist Salvador Sans .

5. Back to the base. Found this great store, Puntos en El Espacio. Full of different Argentine designers and totally affordable. I cut my toe on the way out (good thing I got that tetanus shot!) so no pics. God was punishing me for shopping morning and evening.

6. Dinner at Cafe San Juan. OMG, how could our second choice be that good? Such a shame that my partner in pork (Agustina) could not be with us that night because this place can braze some pork, puree some potatoes, and bacon wrap a grilled onion. I almost cried it was so good. Plus the boys in the kitchen all looked like they hopped off the santa cruz boat- skater hats bobbed in and out of the kitchen. Jean aprons, big smiles, and chalkboard menus. The waiter also recommended the salmon pate which was divine.

7. You think I went out after that? Hellll no.
Wed:

1. Viejo Palermo. Shop, walk, shop, walk, eat at Freud & Fahler. Palermo feels miles away from the city center. It’s quiet, and strolling down cobblestone alleyways from boutiques to stylish cafes to cute plazas is super pleasant. I got some jeans at Puro Diseno and some very cute undies at Juana de Arco.

2. Met Ariel at Cafe Tortino, one of the oldest cafes in Buenos Aires. The typical snack here is a cafe con leche with three crossants.

3. We stumbled upon the Casa de Cultura and one of the best photography exhibits I’ve seen in a while. Laberinto de Miradas, “fricciones y conflictos en ibroamerica”, please check out the link. Reminded me that despite all the flashes of violent images we see on a daily basis, I certainly am not desensitized when confronted with a photograph that relates a story and a history of injustice, poverty, etc. http://www.laberintodemiradas.net/
4. Drinks at neighborhood bar in San Telmo. I got an allergic reaction from the wine. WTF?
5. Drinks and dub music at La Cigale. Beautiful bar, chill atmosphere, and decent mojitos!

More comin at ya soon!

Got the travel bug?
El Buen Orden: Defensa 894, San Telmo
Don Carlos: Brandsen 699, La Boca
Recoleta area: http://www.recoleta.com.ar/
Cafe San Juan: San Juan 450
Freud & Fahler: Gurrachaga 1750
Tortino: Av de Mayo 829
La Cigale: 25 de Mayo 722

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Will Hike for Chocolate

2 / 20 / 1011 / 6 / 11
So… I’ve come to realize that I’m a city girl. Lakes and mountains can only stimulate me for so long. Thank god we got to Buenos Aires, but before we did here are the two hikes that even I could appreciate.

Cerro Piltriquitron, El Bolson:
El Bolson is a hippie town in the lake district of Argentina (enough with the lakes already!) We stayed here for two days and on the second day we took a taxi to the Plataforma Piltriquitron and hiked to the Refugio (about an hour uphill). Epic views (above) and the refugio serves hot chocolate and pizza.

Cerro Campanario, Bariloche:
Bariloche is a town of chocolate and tourists. I have to admit that after we did all the chocolate tasting we could (Mamushka was the best) I wanted to get out of here ASAP. But, we met some nice kids from Toronto and decided to take a hike with them the next day. The hike was damn steep, but the mother of all lake/mountain views awaited us, as well as a very cute cafe.

Got the travel bug?
El Bolson hostel: http://www.altosdelsur.bolsonweb.com/
Bariloche hostel: http://www.hostel41below.com/es_index.htm
Mamushka chocolate: http://www.mamuschka.com/

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About Me

Hi! I'm Ferron Salniker. Storyteller, event producer, and chilaquiles-enthusiast.

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 Walk-through of @breadandsalt_sandiego today for #mexicoinabottle!  Mezcal & food lovers, I am helping to curate and produce this super fun event on March 11th. 40+ agave spirit brands, wine from the Valle de Guadalupe and bites from some of my favorite restaurants on both sides of the border.  Plus @mafondo is DJ-ing, @letsgoclandestino is offering a pre-event tour of Tijuana, and our non-profit partner, #loganavenueconsortium will be bringing cars & artists. ⭐️ Hope to see you there! Check out www.mexinabottle.com for tix or link in bio   I don't think I fully appreciated cochinita pibil when I lived in Merida. Purple pickled onions, sweet & earthy slow cooked pork, bread from Panaderia Rosetta.  Snacks on a boat.
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