Tues:
1. Cruise around San Telmo, our hood for five days. Found a great vintage store called El Buen Orden. The owners are adorable and helped me go through the entire sunglasses collection until I found the perfect vintage armani shades (I’m a classy biatch). Calle Defensa is lined with Antique shops, I was in heaven waking up in this area.
4. Recoleta Cultural Center and Palais Glacia. Both had cool exhibits, my fave at the cultural center was graphic novelist Salvador Sans .
5. Back to the base. Found this great store, Puntos en El Espacio. Full of different Argentine designers and totally affordable. I cut my toe on the way out (good thing I got that tetanus shot!) so no pics. God was punishing me for shopping morning and evening.
6. Dinner at Cafe San Juan. OMG, how could our second choice be that good? Such a shame that my partner in pork (Agustina) could not be with us that night because this place can braze some pork, puree some potatoes, and bacon wrap a grilled onion. I almost cried it was so good. Plus the boys in the kitchen all looked like they hopped off the santa cruz boat- skater hats bobbed in and out of the kitchen. Jean aprons, big smiles, and chalkboard menus. The waiter also recommended the salmon pate which was divine.
7. You think I went out after that? Hellll no.
Wed:
1. Viejo Palermo. Shop, walk, shop, walk, eat at Freud & Fahler. Palermo feels miles away from the city center. It’s quiet, and strolling down cobblestone alleyways from boutiques to stylish cafes to cute plazas is super pleasant. I got some jeans at Puro Diseno and some very cute undies at Juana de Arco.
2. Met Ariel at Cafe Tortino, one of the oldest cafes in Buenos Aires. The typical snack here is a cafe con leche with three crossants.
3. We stumbled upon the Casa de Cultura and one of the best photography exhibits I’ve seen in a while. Laberinto de Miradas, “fricciones y conflictos en ibroamerica”, please check out the link. Reminded me that despite all the flashes of violent images we see on a daily basis, I certainly am not desensitized when confronted with a photograph that relates a story and a history of injustice, poverty, etc. http://www.laberintodemiradas.net/
4. Drinks at neighborhood bar in San Telmo. I got an allergic reaction from the wine. WTF?
5. Drinks and dub music at La Cigale. Beautiful bar, chill atmosphere, and decent mojitos!
More comin at ya soon!
Got the travel bug?
El Buen Orden: Defensa 894, San Telmo
Don Carlos: Brandsen 699, La Boca
Recoleta area: http://www.recoleta.com.ar/
Cafe San Juan: San Juan 450
Freud & Fahler: Gurrachaga 1750
Tortino: Av de Mayo 829
La Cigale: 25 de Mayo 722
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Hit up Don Carlos today for lunch! It was amazing and I’m not sure I’ve ever been so full. I wanted to flag people down in the street and tell them to eat there it was so good! How did you find it? I must have said “thank god for Ferron!” at least 3 times while we were there. Only downside to no menu is having no idea of the prices until Carlitos brings you a bill to match the mountain of food he served you! (Also noticed that the food & service for gringos differs from what locals get, but no surprise there.)