Five Places to Eat and Drink in San Diego

1 / 24 / 18

The first time I went to San Diego I got stuck in traffic for hours. Like, way more hours than we thought. So long that I didn’t even chuckle at my first glance of the nuclear tits (power plant domes that resemble a bosom on the I-5). We had some mediocre fish tacos when we got there. My bestie was pregnant so she couldn’t even order a stiff drink. It was a bummer.

Since then I have been back mostly for family visits, but recently went to do some eating and drinking reconnaissance for an upcoming event I’m helping to produce. I was armed with recommendations and optimism, and they did not fail me. The drive was smooth, the tacos memorable in the right way, and the hot dogs came out of a lowrider. Read on for details.

Galaxy Taco

I first tried a Galaxy Taco at Tacolandia, and I remember the savory carnitas and blue corn tortilla like it was yesterday. This time the grilled avocado was seared in my memory (see what I did there?) A half of an avocado covered in elotes (corn, chipotle, cotija, and garlic), over black bean puree in a soft, freshly made blue tortilla.

Come thirsty too, there’s a corn beer made just for Galaxy by Benchmark Brewing with non-GMO corn and a tamarind michelada. We also sampled a delightfully balanced mezcal cocktail with Ancho Reyes Verde, a housemade pineapple syrup and poblano chile. The space is dynamic with a partial patio housed under papel picado and bright green walls, a purple and red corn mural on one wall, and scribbles from guests all over the far wall.

Barrio Dogg

Art Gallery San Diego Cruizin Lowrider Galleria

In a celebration of the lowrider culture in Southern California, Cruizin Lowrider Galeria hosts a dope collection of photographs, multimedia and a tire-made sink in Barrio Logan. Right outside, Barrio Dogg’s cleverly designed cherry red lowrider hot dog stand offers an array of gourmet dogs and salsas that are not playin around.

My favorite was the Samurai: an angus dog, drizzled with hoisen BBQ, topped with pickled jicama, cucumber, and carrot, plus siracha with jalapeño, cilantro, crunchy garlic and wasabi sesame seeds. Add some of the guayaba salsa or carrot habanero for an extra kick. Don’t let the enamoring name or the beet-purple color fool you: purple rain will light your tongue up with the number of chiles in it. Keeping with the theme of chicano comfort food, you can also get a bowl of sopa de fideo, a creamy tomato based noodle soup I can never resist. Outside seating only, dogs range from $5 to $8.

Barrio Logan is a historically Mexican-American and Chicano neighborhood with a history of activism and fighting gentrification. On this block you’ll find a number of awesome businesses and galleries (a few more listed here) owned by longtime residents that cater to the community and just down the road you can explore Chicano Park, which was recently named a National Historic Landmark.

Por Vida

Just like patches or enamel pins on a backpack, the stickers on a register can say a lot about who’s behind it. I already liked the decorated tin lanterns and the soundtrack, but when I saw the Michelle 2020 and pink concha sticker on the register, I was wishing there was a neighborhood cafe like this in my LA and Oakland neighborhoods. Part gallery and store, the cafe hosts events and has a sweet selection of branded mugs, growlers, shirts and more. Coffee is locally roasted and a blend of organic beans from Latin America. With white walls, a bar facing the street-side open windows, and picnic tables the space at Por Vida is airy and welcoming. Come here for the canela & brown sugar latte and regular events and gallery openings.

Border x Brewing

Wash the doggs down with a beer at the neighborhood brewery with craft beers inspired by Mexican flavors. There’s a big patio, live music, tacos and a killer horchata golden stout.

Cantina Mayahuel

For all things agave in San Diego, Cantina Mayahuel is the spot. With hundreds of tequilas and mezcals, no doubt you’ll be content sipping on something. The cocktail here is the margarita, made with orange nectar, orange liqueur and lime. The vibe here reminds me of a small mezcal bar in a lake town in Michoacan, Mexico— dark and unpretentious with carved wood mermans watching me from the wall. There’s a food menu here with daily specials, but I was taco-ed out so I had a ceasar salad which was a bit overdressed for me, but otherwise good flavors. The one thing that I noticed traveling outside of the Bay Area is that when you order a salad you don’t have to split three beets and a leaf of frisee between two people, you actually get some value— even a full meal if you’re like me and love vegetables. Happy hour is 12-6 pm, Tuesday- Friday with $5 drink specials.

Side note: a few of these businesses will be at Mexico in a Bottle, which I’m helping to produce, on March 11th in San Diego!

Where to Eat and Drink in Rosarito

6 / 12 / 17

Rosarito is right on the Pacific coast and in between two great food destinations, Tijuana and Ensenada (including the increasingly trendy wine destination, Valle de Guadalupe) but I think a lot of Americans still come here mostly looking for Vegas-size margaritas. I found evidence for that theory recently when a group of six asked me to take a photo of them in their borracho shirts (borracho number 1, borracho number 2…) I believe it was number 3 who said she was pregnant, and while I will reserve judgment on what could have been one beer, I really hope her kid never sees that picture. (Borracho means drunk btw).

I have spent a lot of time in Rosarito this past year because my boyfriend grew up here. It’s different from most of the places I’ve lived or traveled in Mexico: it’s truly a border town, the highway runs through it like an artery and development catering to Americans crawls across the hills. There is great food here, but it is helpful to know where to go so you avoid any tourist/ex-pat traps. Often the food comes with dope scenery, sitting at the edge of the Pacific. No frills, the ocean, and a local craft beer. Sounds cool, right? Here are a few places I recommend.

El Nido and Los Pelicanos

Once for a birthday present my uncle Tom elaborately wrapped a box and inside were flour tortillas from his favorite place in the Mission. He gave me the gift of “the best tortillas ever” and the feeling of receiving the most perfectly selected gift for me, and my delight at trying the tortillas is not unlike how I feel eating the warm, freshly made flour tortillas at these two places every time.

Unless there is some weird historical split, I think these restaurants are owned by the same family, and the specialties here— venison, rabbit and quail— are raised on their land nearby. The chewy, perfectly browned flour tortillas are patted out at stations around the restaurant (you can make your own if you ask, mine came out square). Nido means nest in Spanish, and indeed the dining room here feels like you’re tucked in a tropical nest, with plants and lanterns hanging up and down the walls. At Los Pelicanos, the decor is similar but with a patio that sits elevated over the beach. But the 70s kitsch is brought down to real country earth by the brick and fireplaces and wagon wheels and the smell of mesquite. For breakfast at either of these places we always get the same thing: venison machaca with beans, nopal and quail eggs, a plate of tropical fruit, a green juice, and lots of tortillas. One thing I love at El Nido in the mornings is that they’ll bring you toasted buttery white bread with three different house-made jams. For dinner, we often just get queso fundido with mushrooms and chorizo, guacamole, and a pinto bean soup, with margaritas of course. Beware on the weekends, the waits here can be long so go at off hours. In downtown Rosarito.

Bleu Galley

Breakfast Las Gaviotas Rosarito Blue Galley

The quaint little world of thisFrench-leaning cafe feels much farther away from the highway than it is. Come here for simple egg dishes, quiche and pot pies, with daily desserts and freshly baked pastries. There’s a chalkboard breakfast and lunch menu, and the place is small enough that you’ll probably end up in conversation with other diners. I loved the almond and goat cheese quiche we had, and I wanted to bathe in the light, mango creme for dessert. On the left across from Las Gaviotas.

Tacos El Yaqui

Come here for tacos made of juicy arrachera, flour tortillas, a guacamole splat, and pinto beans. Go for perrones, all the ingredients above with melted cheese. There’s usually a bit of a wait to get your food if you go at typical hours. This place is open Thursday through Monday and seating is all outdoors. In downtown Rosarito.

Las Gorditas de Rosarito

We found this place when Tacos El Yaqui was closed, and I’m glad we did. Gorditas are kinda like especially thick corn tortillas, slit and stuffed with different guisados, anything from shrimp to steak or salsa verde chicharron. We were happy with the steak and avocado, and the guisado of potatoes, poblano peppers and melted cheese. The wrapping of a burrito is truly an art form taken for granted by an Oakland girl like me, don’t make that ordering mistake or you will end up like me running to the trunk of the car and grabbing an extra tortilla to soak up the mess while in the border line. But the gorditas we’re perfect for taking to go (I mean, no officer, nothing to declare). A family joint that opened three months ago, I hope it is still there when we return.

Trenta Cuattro

Trenta Quattro Pizza Rosarito Beer Sunset

At Trenta Cuattro, on the edge of the right side of the road headed south from Rosarito, you’ll find a pizza restaurant with epic ocean views and good snacks at decent prices— a rare combo most places in the world. The open-air space here feels pieced together in a good way, like someone thoughtfully decided that the feel of the place should not be overly thoughtful. There’s mismatched furniture on different levels, all facing a parking lot and beyond that the ocean and a few palapas for sitting right at the edge of the drop.

They have wines and cheese from the Valle de Guadalupe, as well as Mexican craft beer. It’s here where I’ve met two of my favorite new beers: the Agua Mala sirena pilsner, and the Insurgentes Tiniebla. If you aren’t up on it yet, there’s a craft beer revolution in Mexico right now and a lot of good stuff is coming out of this very area.

I’ll admit that I haven’t had the pizza, but there is a seasonal abalone pizza on the menu and that possibility alone makes me want to come back. Regardless, come for a beer or glass of wine and a cheese board. This is a great place to watch the sunset, keep in mind it may not be the best when temps are low.

Tinta Negra

This is a tiny taproom serving different Mexican craft beers right in downtown Rosarito. You can try some of the best craft producers in the state, and the menu is switched up monthly. In a food court, where we have yet to try any of the stalls. Cheers!

Tamales Acapulco and the Original Community Organizers Behind Oakland Street Food

2 / 18 / 17

You can’t miss the street food vendors on the sidewalk on International Blvd in Fruitvale. The fruit carts with peeled and cubed tropical fruits stacked in neat quart containers that go out to customers with a squeeze of lime and chile. There are tamales, wrapped in corn husks or banana leaves, warm drinks with chocolate, corn and cinnamon, pupusas and bacon wrapped hot dogs on the weekends. While these street vendors seem like an integral part of Fruitvale, many people don’t know about the journey it took for them to be there.

Tamales Acapulco is one of those vendors, tucked behind the parking lot of El Charro Market on Fruitvale Ave and E 15th. The owner, Teresa Mondragon, was among the first group of street food vendors here some 18 years ago. It was her cohort of about 25 vendors, lead by a fierce organizer still working in the community that legalized street vending in the area, setting a foundation for mobile food legislation for the city at large.

“I used to make and sell street food in Mexico, so when I first came here I immediately started doing that and there was no one else selling tamales on the street at that time,” said Señora Tere. “We would sell them out of a Lucky’s shopping cart, and we were always a little scared because we were doing it illegally.”

Emilia Otero, now owner of commercial kitchen La Placita, was approached by some of the first vendors asking for help with legalizing their businesses. A community organizer who had recently moved from LA to be with her grown daughter in Oakland, the need resonated with her— not just to help protect vendors, but to bring healthier food options into the community (like fruit carts).

“This group, they were amazing, if I gave them 24 hours notice they dropped everything. I would have meetings with lawyers, a nutritional group in Berkeley or city hall and they would always be there,” she said.

Emilia Otero with a photo of the first association of street food vendors in Fruitvale.

The group formed the first street vendors association here, and eventually worked with local politicians and the health department to legalize vendors in certain parts of East Oakland in 2001. It was one of the first municipal ordinances on street food vending in the country. Otero then took on infrastructure challenges, like renting a commercial kitchen and providing business guidance. She bypassed $9,000 quotes from California factories and on a trip to Mexico convinced the Governor of Jalisco to help her build Mexican-made pushcarts for an affordable price (of $500). She still organizes for mobile food legislation, helps vendors with their businesses and operates the commercial kitchen La Placita, which supports vendors from all different backgrounds who sell in and outside of Fruitvale.

“My goal was to legalize these businesses, but my dream was to expand these types of businesses. Because you can help so many people, you can bring them out of poverty, and it can work in any country in the world,” said Otero.

The city’s policy on mobile food vending has slowly evolved but been largely restrictive, murky, and cost-prohibitive. Certain districts allow vendors on private property, but outside of that area vendors are greatly restricted on where they are allowed to sell, the hours, and to operating alongside other vendors, forming what are called “pods.” This month there is a City Council hearing scheduled to review a new comprehensive mobile food vending program that should provide more opportunities for vendors (and more options for eaters!) At the last hearing business owners lined up to share how their mobile businesses allowed them to create jobs, put their kids through college, and share their food cultures.

To experience a good tamal, head to Tamales Acapulco. Señora Tere said the children of some of her first clients are still regulars and it’s these customer relationships that have sustained her business for almost two decades. She offers a Guatemalan tamal wrapped in banana leaf with a much softer masa, and Mexican tamales wrapped in corn husks. There is a vegetarian version with cheese and rajas, chicken, and I love the pork made with a salsa roja. She also offers pupusas, tortas, warm drinks like atole and champurrado, and is planning to start making breakfast tacos with freshly made tortillas soon. Best to go in the morning, as tamales tend to run out by the afternoon.

Eating and Drinking in Ensenada and Valle de Guadalupe

10 / 14 / 1610 / 17 / 16

Did you know there’s a wine valley in Baja? In Valle de Guadalupe you’re sure to find good food and wine, beautiful views and probably at least one wrong turn down a country road. Not far away is Ensenada, formerly a big destination for cruise ship and spring breakers, and once you have a seafood tostada from one of these street carts, you might never think of street food or seafood the same way. My first trip to northern Baja was exactly a year ago, and since then I’ve been back a few times. Here are several places I’ve enjoyed. As always, there will be more to come.

Valle de Guadalupe

While the valley has pretty quickly grown to include about 60 wineries, it’s still relatively rustic and meant for tourists who feel comfortable navigating somewhat rural Mexico. Signs are there but many of the roads are dirt and often windy with forks that lead to nowhere— or maybe to Corazon de Tierra, one of Latin America’s best restaurants next to a six-room boutique hotel. You never know here. A trip around the valley requires a driver like my friend Jorge, who passed a locked-up winery gate back and forth before taking an unmarked path to the front of the building and smiled, “No, it’s not closed!” Visit anytime Spring through Fall.

El Pinar de Tres Mujeres

Ismene makes the kind of food you want to eat when in a wine valley: it’s casual and tasty, served family style, with clean flavors showing the best of local ingredients, reminding you of the beauty and bounty that surrounds you with each dish. There’s usually a soup, a main, salad, and some kind of ceviche. The patio tables are next to an open air kitchen at 3 Mujeres Winery. Trees shade the dining area and vineyards are just below. The winery, co-owned by Ismene’s mom, is made up of a team of female winemakers. Being here feels like being a guest at a friend’s ranch home. Because, you know, I have soooo many friends with ranch homes.

Cuatro Cuatros

My first stop ever to the valley was Cuatro Cuatros, just over the hills from the Ensenada-Tijuana highway. Fourteen tented cabañas are nestled in this 144 acre property that extends from the top of the hills that overlook the coast to the valley of vineyards. Two antique shrimping boats sit next to grape vines. Be sure to take a drive to the top of the hill for a look at the view. In order to taste wine here you have to say you have reservations at the restaurant, a safari-like tent with animal skin rugs— is it called Desert-chic? We ordered a bottle of the rosé, and—best kept secret in the valley—sips of one of the employee’s uncle’s mezcal from Oaxaca. His name is Noe, and if he has enough you can buy a bottle. It tastes like Pineapple.

Malva

Malva is the first stop in the Valley on the road to Tecate. My boyfriend is friends with the chef/owner, so the first time we went they sat for five hours and traded kitchen horror stories (the pain of making a club sandwich on a late night room service shifts sounds real) while I devoured plate after plate of food and enjoyed the late afternoon golden light. “This is a place where I would want to eat, with food I would want to eat, with prices I would like to spend,” said Chef Roberto Alcocer breaking it down. I would agree. This is an elegant and comfortable outdoor restaurant, with the “dining room” under a huge palapa, next to an open kitchen, and the restaurant garden near the entrance. The food is gorgeous, but not precious, and changes with the seasons. I love it here.

Finca Altozano

The theme here is countryside cooking, and oh is it themed out to the max. Sheep on the property are harvested. A veggie garden is just below the open-air dining room, right below the bakery. Most things are cooked on the fire, and the kitchen extends from one end of the dining room to the other. There’s a gift shop with locally made soap and cooking tools, giant wine barrels for you to climb up and sit on while overlooking the valley, and a separate coffee bar inside one of the barrels. Have some snacks and then sit on one of the tall barrels for the sunset.

Torres Alegre
I didn’t try enough wine to say that this is the best wine in the valley, but my friend who has tried plenty of wine here was very excited about this place. Dr. Torres-Alegre, the first enologist in Mexico to have a PhD in the science of enology, is the winemaker here. The winery itself isn’t the most inviting structure, a little too much concrete for my taste, but the tasting room is small and service is welcoming.

Ensenada

Ensenada is about 30 minutes away, depending on where you are in the Valley. Get dropped off in the touristy center and you might be underwhelmed by shop after shop selling the same touristy tchotchkes. But check out the seafood market at the marina or a street cart, and you’ll be overwhelmed with options.

La Guerrerense

In partial thanks to Anthony Bourdain everyone knows about Sabina’s seafood stand, and it’s pretty much the only place I said I HAD to get to the first time I went to Ensenada. I think it was a promising sign when my first breakfast with my boyfriend was a sea urchin sofrito tostada topped an inch high with scallops, avocado and chile de jardin salsa (peanuts and charred chiles) sitting on a red plastic stool in Ensenada. For the adventurous seafood eater.

Breve Cafe

I was desperate for coffee and it was looking bleak for a moment while we were driving through the spring break club-lined streets— and then I saw it: red stools, a counter, hipster writing. “Stop, it’s a cute cafe!” And indeed I was right, just a street side to-go spot with coffees from around Mexico and super sweet staff.

La Contra/Boules

Housed behind La Contra is Boules, a patio restaurant with a bacci ball court surrounded by trees. La Contra is a wine and beer store featuring local bottles, so this is a cool space to stop if you need a gift or something to take home, and then of course, have a drink in the patio under the magnolia tree.

Mariscos El Güero

If you want to seafood cart crawl, hit up Mariscos El Güero too— I mean, everyone else is there. This crowded cart is a machine, with each worker holding down a different station. You want a clams tostada? You gotta ask the clam shucking guy on the corner of the left side. Don’t be fooled by the crowd, food comes out fast and everyone just hangs around eating over plastic-wrapped plates. The most popular items I saw were ground fish ceviche tostadas, patas de mula (bloody clams) in the shell, and mixed seafood tostadas. It’s still a novelty to me to be able to go to a street cart and throw back oysters and octopus tostadas, surrounded by perfect slices of avocado and smells of fresh chiles— all for a very reasonable price. No matter how often I visit I don’t ever expect to get tired of flavors like this.

Oaxaca Raw: Mexican Food at the Mar Vista Farmers Market

9 / 23 / 16

I usually roll my eyes at anything advertised as raw food or vegan. Neither of those labels indicates that a meal will be balanced, healthy or taste good. In LA “healthy” food trends have arrived to the point of ground goji berries and activated cashews being considered a full meal. No mames.*

But of course I like eating raw vegetables, and sometimes I don’t feel like eating meat, so I appreciate finding unique options to eat that way on a hot day in LA. In this case, I found Oaxaca Raw Living Food at the Mar Vista farmers market. Oaxaca and raw foods don’t naturally align in my mind. Oaxaca is definitely the spot for food markets, and when I was there I bought all kinds of produce and ate tropical fruit every morning. But it’s more known for hearty, laborious dishes like mole that definitely happen over the stove. I was curious what Oaxaca Raw would mean.

Sergio is from Tlacolula, home to one of the Oaxaca central valley’s biggest outdoor markets. I’ve been twice and loved it. “It’s today in fact!” he reminded me on Sunday. After moving to LA he worked for years in raw food restaurants. He changed his diet, and liked the way it made him feel and look. Eventually, he decided to put his own spin on raw foods.

The menu is not necessarily more Oaxacan than it is Mexican inspired. There are nut and veggie tacos, a veggie burger made with seeds and nuts with tumeric jicama sticks on the side, and a few sweet cacao treats. I ordered the enchiladas, made with a flax seed & coconut tortilla and covered in a mild dried chile salsa with cashew cream. Inside it was filled with a mixture of nuts, raisins, green olives, parsley and lettuce. The tortilla was a little flimsy, but overall there was spice to balance the sweet, a nice crunch from the lettuce, and for the first time ever, I found an enchilada to be refreshing.

Oaxaca Raw products are sold at a few grocery stores in LA and at the Mar Vista farmers market every Sunday 9 am to 2 pm.