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Category Archives: In Between Meals

Hotels in Mexico

12 / 20 / 152 / 18 / 16

Casa Tia Micha
Casa Tia Micha
Casa Caribe
Casa Caribe
Stella B & B
Stella B & B
Breakfast at Hotel Amaite and Spa
Breakfast at Hotel Amaite and Spa
Casa Tia Micha
Casa Tia Micha
Cabañas Bambu
Cabañas Bambu

I am booking another trip to Mexico and remembering how annoying it is to look through hotel reviews. Especially if you are like me and want the finer things in life— on a non-profit/writer budget. Sure, Trip Advisor is awesome until you end up at a hotel in “the most charming seaside village” Amy has ever visited only to realize it’s a cheesey, dilapidated port town and that YOU DON’T KNOW WHO THE F AMY IS OR WHAT KIND OF SEASIDE VILLAGES SHE’S EVER BEEN TO.

But, if you are reading this blog you probably know me, or at least know my taste in food. So I figured I can be helpful with hotels too.

I like places that are walking distance from food and away from tourist strips, that are safe and clean, have charm, owned by nice people, and provide good value. I should note that I often stay with people in Mexico, so when I’m not doing that I’ll pay a little more if I can avoid annoying young backpackers, will feel safe, and like my room enough to spend several hours writing in it.

Here’s a list of a few places I’ve stayed.

Oaxacan Coast: If you want to stay in the San Agustinillo area, Bambu is the place.

Cabañas Bambu San Agustinillo
Cabañas Bambu San Agustinillo
Cabañas Bambu
Cabañas Bambu

There are 6 cabins, all different and all facing the ocean. I’ve stayed in a lot of cabins on the beach, and these are beautifully constructed with high ceilings and plenty of privacy. In the center of the property is a communal kitchen with a big wood table and it’s nice to chat with other folks as you’re making a meal. The beach is clean, nearly empty at sunrise and not too crowded otherwise. Memo, the owner, is originally from Mexico City but has been here for a while and he and the whole staff are great people.

Tijuana: TJ is an odd place to look for accommodations, many of the options are away from Avenida Revolucion and are generic chain hotels. La Villa Zaragosa is right near the center of things. There is nothing fancy about it but it’s cheap, clean and safe. $45 for double room/night.

Mexico City: The well know Red Tree House was booked, so I explored many options for B&Bs in the Roma and Condesa area. I was staying by myself and knew I would be walking all day so I wanted something a little luxurious, in a neighborhood I knew. Stella B&B was perfect. It’s a 1930s house set behind a gate and tropical courtyards with seven rooms. I stayed in room number 5 and opened my door to bouganvia covered steps every morning. $89/night.

Hotels in Yucatan

HolBox: We stayed at Hotel Amaite for five nights after booking a deal on Expedia and we were super pleased with the value. For our price range it was absolutely the best bet on the beach. Nice rooms with balconies and good breakfast with fruit, homemade bread and jam and coffee. Julie does yoga on the balcony during sunset, it’s dreamy (and sweaty). With the deal our stay averaged $60 for a double room/night.

Valladolid: Casa Tia Micha is a restored colonial home in the center of Valladolid that is well cared for and charming down to every last hand-painted tile. I paid $100 for a night, which was a little steep for Valladolid but for the palace-like room I got it should have been a small fortune.

Isla Mujeres: Hotel Cabañas Maria del Mar is one of the best deals on the beach, and in a quieter area on Playa Norte. The wi-fi is pretty lame, you have to go next door to an outdoor bar to use it and even then it is slow. But I looked around and this was the most affordable but non backpacker-y place on the beach and I was really comfortable. I got a deal for $60/night.

Cancun: I stayed in the most awesome airbnb in a real neighborhood in Cancun. Owned by a very attentive family. I found several tasty cheap places to eat around here. $42/night when most people are paying a million dollars to stay on the nasty strip?? Yes please.

Puerto Morelos: This is a sweet town to stay if you are flying out of Cancun in the morning but don’t want to actually be in Cancun (which was how I felt one night). Only 30 minutes away by bus. Be aware that there is not much swimming here, it’s all reef. Casa Caribe has pleasant, airy rooms across from the beach and offers cooking classes too. $75/night.

More coming soon!

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In Between Meals on Holbox

7 / 30 / 158 / 5 / 15

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It would be easy to spend most of your day lounging in a beach hammock on Holbox. But then you miss smobbin’ around in a golf cart to find the perfect popsicle.

Here are some things to do and snack on in between meals:
Sunset at El Chiringuito
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To make friends on the island look no further than El Chiringuito. It’s on the corner of the beach where the hotels end and the locals gather on a washed up log to watch the sunset. The drinks are big, frozen, made one at a time in a blender and with almost too much care for a place with swings and hammocks for seats. Order whatever they have on the chalkboard, it usually involves mango or mint.

Find Saborines (or bolis)
There’s this fantastic frozen snack I’ve mentioned before on my blog only under the name of bolis, but in holbox they seem to be called saborines. I think boli also means blow job, but I’m not sure which came first. They are essentially paletas in free-form, in plastic bags. You will see signs for them. In all the tropical flavors of coco, guanabana, mamey, nance and more. I saw a handwritten sign for some a few blocks from the plaza but no one was at the front of the house, so I wandered into their patio and a mother and daughter pulled out a few from the freezer.

Take a Boat Trip
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There are a few boat trips you can take from the island. The typical (and most affordable) has three stops: a bird reserve, a cenote and isla de la passion, where you can walk in shallow turquoise waters for a mile and take lots of selfies. Others will take you to see the whale sharks (usually June to September) and there’s another that will take you to the point where the Gulf and the Caribbean meet, called Cabo Catoche. That one is more pricey, but includes a meal made right on the beach and takes up most of the day. We went with the Cooperativa Turistica “Pulperos del Caribe”. When you book your tour be sure to talk to the owner Karateka, he’s got a wealth of knowledge about the island and as his side hustle does animal rescue. As I was interviewing him he got a call about a baby alligator stuck at the pier, so we hopped on bikes to go find him and help him out of the area. Note: baby alligators are scarier than I imagined.

Sip on that Paleta and Juice

“I know, let’s get some mango and coconut paletas and some passion fruit juice, and dump them all in a cup with that havana club you bought.” A good friend says yes to that. And then after buzzing around on our golf cart gathering all the supplies, plus wandering into a creepy convenience store that has two fridges of nothing but coca cola (of course, Mexico) comes up with the brilliant plan of celebrating a well-made mush of frozen drink by riding around in circles, or as we call it in the Bay, doing donuts. We found Paleteria Ancona, where they make everything right there in the morning.

Drink Cocos
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All you boozers bearing your souls to your bartenders, I just found one better. His name is Jorge and he has a coconut cart. During my second Jorge encounter I found him surrounded by older women as he hacked their coconuts with his machete (that sounds way more violent than I intended it to). A young hot guy passed by, arms full of produce. “The best coconut vendor in all of Holbox!” he said, and then asked Jorge if he needed limes, and insisted on dropping off a big bag. Jorge, embarrassed that he didn’t have cash, asked if he could settle up with him later. “Me and you were born settled!” said the hot lime man. With that Jorge and the women started discussing karma. They did not leave for a while, even after drinking their coconuts. I stayed to talk, but also because I was hoping the hot lime man would come back.

Jorge comes walking down the beach usually around 1 p.m. yelling “cocooooos.” His cocos are always cold (and fresh, he gets them himself every morning) and if you bring your coco back to him he’ll chop up the meat for you with a sprinkle of lime and chile.

Chase the Murals
Just before we arrived there was an international public art festival and people from all over descended on the island to paint murals. Which means that a new piece of artwork surprises you around every corner— covering houses, empty buildings and storefronts.

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Dance at Tribu
If you haven’t been to an island jam session, you haven’t had the full island experience. This hostel has a balcony bar with live music almost every night, often performed with audience participation. If you’re lucky, you might catch a rendition of “hit the road yack.”

Rent a Golf Cart (go crazy)
You can grab a golf cart almost anywhere for about $50 for four hours. It’s entirely worth it to see the various sides the island. We liked the beach near the hotel Los Nubes and the beach at Punta Coco. If you haven’t been to a Mexican cemetery, pay a (quiet and respectful) visit to this one. Graves are painted in pastel colors and tropical flowers lean over the walls. Just make sure there’s a number to call on your cart in case it breaks down.
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Do Yoga with Juli
Every day at sunset that I wasn’t drinking or going out to eat (so, most days) I did yoga with Juli on the balcony of my hotel. The classes were challenging and refreshing. When I was there she was offering classes at Hotel Amaité and Casa Las Tortugas.

Talk to People
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People are friendly on Holbox, don’t waste that. Plus, there are people working here who come from all over Mexico, so you’ll learn a lot about the rest of the country, as far away as it seems.

On my last day I was looking for someone who would have pity on a gringa and take me out fishing with them. Someone told me to go find an older man at the third house from the pizzeria on the right of the plaza. The house, as a lot of houses are in Yucatan, was open, with two men swinging in hammocks in the living room. The family, including a grandma, mother, brothers, and a toddler were eating ceviche and before I even stated my purpose, they invited me in. Turns out, they were a third generation holbox family. No one was going fishing that day, but they did sit with me for an hour and answer all my questions about life on holbox.

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Almost 24 Hours in Downtown LA

4 / 21 / 155 / 4 / 15

We started with a juice and a tumeric-ginger shot at Crafters, and then armed with the make-believe nutritional permission to eat and drink mostly things that are bad for us, we walked into Spring Street. Here are a few recommendations to eat and drink your way through a night (and morning) in downtown LA.

Hamburguesas Punta Cabras
Hamburguesa_Punta_CabrasOne of my favorite things to eat in Morelia was a hamburger out of a tiny hole in the wall spot near the centro. There’s something different about a Mexican hamburger, it’s smaller, well done, and usually covered in toppings. Punta Cabras is rocking an LA version of the Mexican burger with lettuce, tomato, house pickles, charred green onion and 1,000 islas salsa. Don’t miss out on the green curry guacamole or the mexican ranch. There’s a black bean and a turkey version, plus some fries (and chorizo and cheese-smoothered dirty fries). This is a new tiny place that doesn’t have a sign yet, so just use your nose. From the same owners/chefs as Tacos Punta Cabras in Santa Monica, who gave up their fine dining careers to feed us messy and good affordable things.

Ace Hotel Upstairs Bar
Ace_Hotel_UpstairsMy favorite rooftop bar downtown makes for a great place to watch the sunset. Frank Lloyd Wright’s Ennis House meets Morroccan pillows, tropical drinks, a steadily head-nodding DJ in all beige, and lots of cute people working.

The Little Easy
Think of a faded Disneyland New Orleans set (weathered french doors, a porch swing, a stuffed alligator) and you’ve pictured The Little Easy, with just enough faux grime to make it feel like a place you can get goofy. Don’t stop at the front bar, go through a twisting hallway until you’ve found a dark French Quarter-esq courtyard brightened by chandeliers, an illuminated fountain, and very happy bartenders. I don’t remember what I drank here, but I would hope you could find a good sazerac.

The Continental Club
This is a fun place to dance, especially on Saturdays, when DJ Maple Syrup is there. Funk, hip-hop, soul, a little salsa and not so many sleazy dudes. The low lighting and red walls are sexy, waiting in the line while you watch girls in terrible tiny outfits waltz in, not so much.

Historic Core Farmers Market-Sundays
Historic Core Farmers MarketThere’s not so much to eat here, but this little stretch of market makes for a fun stroll on your way to brunch on Sunday mornings. There’s a woman selling $6 juice (I grabbed the one with bee pollen, papaya, orange and aloe vera), another with pan dulce, and several non-food vendors. Flor sells hats from South Africa and makes sandals, and Juan sells hand-picked records, which is an excellent thing to pick in the heart of LA.

Perch LA
Perch LAThe kind of place that doesn’t need to do anything interesting in the kitchen because you just want to eat the view. French bistro meets downtown LA in this 15th floor rooftop. It could be annoyingly posh but it’s inviting: I want to curl up with a latte on the plush art-deco couches, trace the patterned tiles in some ballerina slippers, and kiss a boy next to the fireplace and glittery views of downtown. The upstairs cocktail lounge opens at noon, and if you want to get in for brunch before definitely make a reservation.

In between meals: Head to The Last Bookstore and there’s always a stroll through Grand Central Market with a coffee at G & B.

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See it: East Side Sushi

2 / 11 / 155 / 3 / 15

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Movie lovers, sushi eaters, Oakland folk (I think that covers all my friends) don’t sleep on this one. On Sunday night I saw East Side Sushi, an independent film playing in the SF Indie fest, and I highly recommend you grab tickets to the next two showings.

There’s a small story arc here, but it’s kinda epic and totally lovable. Juana, an east oakland single mother, is pursuing a place behind the sushi bar against all kinds of odds (she’s a woman, she’s Latina and she’s providing for her daughter and widowed father). You’ll root for her. In the opening scene there’s a window into the early-morning, tough life of a frutero. Juana and her dad split their time between menial jobs and a fruit cart until she’s robbed at gunpoint and needs a change, inspiring her to apply to work at a sushi restaurant.

I liked that it’s filmed at the sushi restaurant on Grand with the bottomless sake, which I typically avoid but find some comfort knowing that it’s there in the case of a really bad day. I liked the shout out to Tokyo Fish Market. I liked that at one point in the movie Juana said something along the truthful lines of “behind every good restaurant is a Latino in the kitchen.” I liked the food porn: fresh fish, bags and cups of tropical fruits, and endless sushi rolls. Sometimes the dialog is a little predictable, but I like a love story, and I liked that this one happened over sushi and tacos.

Fun fact: B-Dama and Coach both offered their space for the film, and a few local sushi superstars are in the movie as well.

My go-to sushi spots in the East Bay:
B-Dama (Not really a typical sushi place but when they do it they do it well)
Geta
Late night: Koryo

Tickets to East Side Sushi here.

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24 Hours in Valladolid

10 / 28 / 147 / 18 / 15

Ten years ago I came to Valladolid for a night with my fellow study abroad students. It was my 20th birthday and we set out to find a bottle of tequila to bring back to the hotel only to find that most places were closed. We ended up with a bottle of unlabeled clear liquid we got from a convenience store. I believe I threw it up in the hotel lobby. For the rest of my year in Merida Valladolid was always a little bit of a joke to me, another mid-size colonial town with yes, some pretty buildings and nothing to do. In 2012 when I saw an article in the NYT calling Valladolid the new Yucatecan cool I laughed and didn’t even click on the link.

So, here I am a decade later totally charmed after 24 hours. Per the usual in these parts, Valladolid was built in 1545 on top of a Mayan town, whose buildings were destroyed and stones reused to construct the Spanish infrastructure. To get a complete historical picture keep in mind that Valladolid makes a good base to explore the surrounding spectacular Mayan ruins like Ek Balam, Chichen Itza, Coba, and my favorite, Uxmal. Cathedrals might be pretty, but these ruins will make your jaw drop.

I’m glad I returned— a little more perceptive, adventurous, and much more selective with my tequila choices.

I might listen because you're so pretty.
I might listen because you’re so pretty.
Cathedral of San Servacio
Cathedral of San Servacio
Hotel Casa Tia Micha
Hotel Casa Tia Micha
Hotel Casa Tia Micha
Hotel Casa Tia Micha
Hotel Casa Tia Micha
Hotel Casa Tia Micha
Just one of 3,000 pieces at Casa de Los Venados, a private residence with one of the largest private collections of Mexican folk art. An absolute must. Tours are at 10 am or make a reservation.
Just one of 3,000 pieces at Casa de Los Venados, a private residence with one of the largest private collections of Mexican folk art. An absolute must. Tours are at 10 am or make a reservation.
Cathedral of San Servacio
Cathedral of San Servacio
La plaza
La plaza
Elote (grilled corn) in the plaza
Elote (grilled corn) in the plaza
Snacks outside of the market.
Snacks outside of the market.
El mercado municipal
El mercado municipal
It's pumpkin season here too! El mercado municipal.
It’s pumpkin season here too! El mercado municipal.
Calzada de los Frailes, which used to connect the Mayan village of Sisal to the city center.
Calzada de los Frailes, which used to connect the Mayan village of Sisal to the city center.
El convento de San Bernardino de Siena
El convento de San Bernardino de Siena
El convento de San Bernardino de Siena
El convento de San Bernardino de Siena
El convento de San Bernardino de Siena
El convento de San Bernardino de Siena
Hot chocolate at Cacao chocolate store, museum and cafe. Served in a jícara.
Hot chocolate at Cacao chocolate store, museum and cafe. Served in a jícara.
200-year old tiles are everywhere, I'm now obsessed.
200-year old tiles are everywhere, I’m now obsessed.
Coqui Coqui Perfumeria and Spa.
Coqui Coqui Perfumeria and Spa.
Coqui Coqui Perfumeria and Spa.
Coqui Coqui Perfumeria and Spa.
Dutzi Design, one of the stores on Calzado de los Frailes using traditional materials and methods to make new products.
Dutzi Design, one of the stores on Calzado de los Frailes using traditional materials and methods to make new products.
Valladolid, the new Brooklyn. A hipster barbershop, colonial style.
Valladolid, the new Brooklyn. A hipster barbershop, colonial style.
There are a few stores next to the barbershop selling baskets, ceramics, hammocks and beautiful panama hats. On Calzado de los Frailes.
There are a few stores next to the barbershop selling baskets, ceramics, hammocks and beautiful panama hats. On Calzado de los Frailes.
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Vegetarian lunch at Yerbabuena de Sisal (green juice with chaya— a local green— and pineapple not pictured!)
Vegetarian lunch at Yerbabuena de Sisal (green juice with chaya— a local green— and pineapple not pictured!)

Eat
http://www.diamantedechocolate.com/home.htm (on Calzado de los Frailes)
https://www.facebook.com/YerbabuenaDelSisal (good for breakfast)
http://tabernadelosfrailes.com (the cochinita and pie de limon are to die for)
(Both restaurants above are near San Bernardino)
La Selva, a local spot for panuchos and salbutes, popular Yucatecan snacks. Open for dinner. You won’t spend more than $5 USD. Calle 31 con calle 42.

Shop
(on Calzado de los Frailes)
http://www.coquicoquiperfumes.com
http://dutzidesign.com/dutzi/Home.html
Tequileria Pancho Villa on Calazado, a great shop featuring tons of GOOD tequila.

Stay
http://casatiamicha.wix.com/casatiamicha
A lovely restored colonial home now housing a B&B. Wonderful people.

Do
http://www.casadelosvenados.com
Mercado Municipal (go in the mornings)
Calzado de los Frailes
El convento de San Bernardino de Siena

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About Me!

Hi! I'm Ferron Salniker. Storyteller, travel guide, and chilaquiles-enthusiast.

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