There are many new things happening in North Oakland that I’m not excited about. Increasingly ridiculous rents, for example. Groups of girls all wearing variants of denim tops and bottoms like some kind of hipsterized J. Crew catalogue. That guy on a segway.
But a few weeks ago I spotted a new addition to the neighborhood, in the shadows of the boarded up Caspers Hot Dogs. There were hand painted signs. Paper plates being handed through a window. The sounds of onion chopping. A taco truck on Telegraph? Now that’s something I get excited about.
Tacos Los Michoacanos is owned by two twin brothers and their family. Jesus Soriano mans the window, while Enrique— who’s cooked alongside Gonzalo Guzman at Nopalito among other places— operates the kitchen. Their parents, originally from Michoacan, have been running the truck from their “home base” on 35th and International for about 18 years. Last year the twins took it over, adding their own twists to the menu and bringing the truck to new locations.
Jesus and I agree on one fundamental thing about tacos: if a tortilla is looking bad, there’s little hope for the taco as a whole. That’s why you can get freshly pressed La Finca blue corn masa for a little extra at Los Hermanos. It’s worth it, the tortillas are substantially bigger that a typical taco-size tortilla, and thick and chewy. In terms of fillings, the carnitas have all the crisp and fat, and the chicken, marinated in a chile oaxaca adobo, is juicy and bright. The agua fresca of the day tasted like it was mostly watermelon, very little sugar if any, which is a a rarity.
For the family specialty however, you’ll need to head to Fruitvale. On weekends they start serving menudo and birria as early as 7:30 and are usually sold out by 11 a.m. I hope to one day very soon rest my hungover head over a bowl.
Tacos Los Michoacanos
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