Before there were ferries and before there was refrigeration, Holboxeños used to eat the eggs of wild birds, all kinds of fish, and on a special night, a manatee that could…
I didn’t want to leave Mandarina, Hotel Casa Tortuga’s restaurant. I went on my last night, after my travel companion left, and sat under the palapa, on the rooftop bar with a mezcal…
At 7 AM on Holbox I woke up and walked the beach, stopping to swim in the Caribbean sea with no one else in sight but two fisherman untangling the…
La Negrita was just a regular cantina when I lived here, which means it was the kind of place my university friends and I would go to after finishing afternoon…
On a 100 degree day in Merida the centro is like a fiery pit of cement. I know I went to school in heat like this when I lived here,…
Leaving Mexico City after two days is like leaving a really good party at 10 pm. Granted, I had been before with my sister and done a lot of the…
I met Chef Wilson Alonzo in the patio of Restaurante Frailes, plucking flowers from the chile xcatik bush, a bright orange chile the shape of a tiny christmas light, with…
I’m headed back to Merida soon, and I can’t wait to eat all of this. Here are five restaurants that represent a spectrum of food in the Merida area, and…
Boy, have my taste buds changed. Ten years ago when I wasn’t drinking a beer in the Merida plaza I was sitting across the street at Helados Colon enjoying an…
On my return to Merida after ten years a lot has changed. Back in the day if you said the word vegetarian you’d get a bewildered look and a plate…